This past week we had our group trip to Northern Italy. This is the 5-day equivalent to our Southern
Italy trip last semester, during which we visit historic cities and learn about
the art, architecture, history, and culture of the area from two of the
professors who work for the program, Dr. Hansen (Archaeology) and Dr.
Economopolous (Art History). Last
semester we focused on ancient Roman history, so the museums and ruins we
visited in southern Italy corresponded with that. Similarly, this semester, we focused on the
Renaissance, much of which is present in the northern section of Italy. If you can imagine a bus full of 31 Saint
Mary’s students, 2 professors, and 1 taskmaster program director (think Ms. Ungermeyer
from The Lizzie McGuire movie and you’ll sorta
get an idea of Dr. Prebys), that’s pretty much what it was. As any big group trip would be, the week was
characterized by long bus rides, early mornings, too many church tours to
count, and the all-too-often commands of Dr. Prebys telling us to “promptly
disembark the motorcoach.” Dr. Prebys
founded the Saint Mary’s Rome program and has been leading it for over 40
years, so let’s just say her jargon is a tad outdated! Aside from the formalities of reporting to
certain places at certain times and following the program schedule rather than
my own all week, I did actually enjoy experiencing the small towns of northern
Italy. The aim of the group trips is to
take us to places we probably wouldn’t travel to on our own, and I must say it
does a good job of fulfilling that mission!
In total, we visited six cities in five days: Ferrara, Mantua, Ravenna,
Padua, Vicenza, and Bologna (that is, three of Italy’s 20 regions: Emilia
Romagna, Lombardia, and Veneto). We saw far too many things to recount in this single
post, so here are just a few of the highlights….
Ferrara: This was the town where our hotel was located, so
after each long day of touring, we would come back to spend the night
here. On Tuesday (our first day), we
visited the historical center of Ferrara, including a tour of the D’Este family
castle and the main Cathedral.
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| D'Este Castle in Ferrara |
Mantua (Mantova in
Italian): In Mantova we toured the Palazzo Te, the retreat home for the old
ruling family of Mantova, the Gonzaga’s followed by the Basilica of Sant’Andrea. Each day our two groups switched off between
the two lecturers, and during this day we had Dr. Hansen (who is secretly my
favorite of the two!), which made me appreciate the Palace. For example, she helped us see various
architectural patterns in the building’s construction that I honestly would
have walked right past, had I not been forced to stop and really look. The Palazzo Te was completely built and
decorated (inside and out) by an architect by the name of Giulio Romano, a
pupil of Raphael. The interesting thing
about it is how Romano managed to play with the architectural knowledge at the
time to create a combined palace/villa look and feel.
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| Palazzo Te |
Ravenna: The highlights of Ravenna were definitely the
breathtaking mosaics in the three main churches we visited: Sant’Apollinare in
Classe, Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, and San Vitale.
On the outside, these churches look very plain and extremely different
from any churches in Rome, but when you enter, they are anything but
plain. Contrary to my prior belief, the
glass mosaic tiles are not all laid flat, but rather arranged at specific
angles to perfectly reflect the light at different times of day. Crazy!
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| Sant'Apollinare in Classe |
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Sant'Apollinare Nuovo
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| San Vitale |
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| San Vitale from the outside |
Padua (Padova in
Italian): Next to Bologna, probably my favorite city of the trip. Unfortunately, we only spent half a day here,
but the weather was beautiful (it had been a little chilly in the previous
three places), and I really enjoyed walking around the historical center
because it reminded of Venice. Rightly
so because Venice is only about an hour away, and historically Padova was under
Venetian rule. One cool part of the
visit was seeing Giotto’s Scrovegni Chapel, the Sistine Chapel’s counterpart in
Padova, but gorgeous in its own right. It
is relatively small and is frescoed floor to ceiling, therefore, only 15 people
can enter at a time, and everyone must be clear of debris and dirt from the
outside air. Everything is timed like
clockwork, so while the first half of the group saw the chapel, the rest of us
were in a “de-dusting” room watching a video about the chapel before we could
be let in. Once inside, we had a short
20 minutes to take it all in, but because of the sheer detail of this place, 20
hours wouldn’t have even been enough!
Each section corresponds to Scripture, beginning with Mary’s conception,
birth, and life, and continuing on to the life of Jesus. You just stand inside this chapel and keep
turning your body to essentially “read” the story as it progresses in painted
form across the walls. Like the Sistine
Chapel, painted on the back wall is the popular religious subject The Last Judgement, depicting the glory
of heaven on Jesus’ right and the fiery, gory depths of hell on his left. Wish I could have taken pictures inside, but
definitely look it up for yourself if you are interested!
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| Fruit and vegetable markets in Padova |
Also in Padova we visited the Basilica dedicated to Saint
Anthony of Padova (often known as the Patron Saint of lost things). Inside the basilica is his tomb as well as
parts of his body known to be uncorrupted—his jaw with teeth intact, tongue,
and vocal chords. How appropriate for
Saint Anthony considering the fact that he lived his whole life filled with the
Spirit, and unable to stop talking about God.
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| Basilica of Saint Anthony |
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| Dante's tomb is actually also in Padova because he was exiled to live there from his hometown of Florence |
Vicenza: We were only in Vicenza for a couple hours, but we
got to see the Teatro Olympico, a fully intact Renaissance theatre that is
still used today, as well as the buildings in the historical center constructed
by the Renaissance architect Palladino.
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| Teatro Olympico |
Bologna: Definitely the largest and liveliest of the towns
we visited, Bologna was filled with young people. This made sense because
Bologna is the location of the first and oldest Italian university. It is known as the city of many porticos
(covered walkways along the streets lined with stores and restaurants), so you
can literally walk for miles under a covered roof. Very unique to this city. As a group we toured a few churches; by that
point we were all a little “churched-out,” and one seemed to blend into the
next. It was a nice break to have a
solid 3 and a half hours to explore the city on our own, sample Bolognese
cuisine, and visit the fruit and vegetable markets.
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| Portici di Bologna |
Another highlight of the week in general was the FOOD! It definitely topped Southern Italy (although
the pizza in Naples was pretty darn good).
I love trying different types of pasta filled with various things
(ricotta and nuts, pear, etc) as well as with various sauces (carrot, pistachio,
etc), and Northern Italy was the place to do just that! In Rome, you find a lot of the same (all very
good of course), but it’s mostly the traditional pastas (pesto, ragù,
carbonara, marinara). I just loved the
local flavor that the smaller towns seemed to offer in terms of their
dishes. My favorite by far was the cappellacci
di zucca (pumpkin-filled tortellini), because for those of you that don’t
already know, I’m kinda obsessed with anything pumpkin flavored. Mom—we are making these when I get
home!! All the pasticcerie (bakeries)
sold the handmade pasta, and it was on almost every menu in each of the six
towns we visited. The interesting thing
is that each town gives a local touch to the same dish, so some of the cappellacci
were sweeter than others. The sweet
pumpkin ones literally tasted like dessert…my mouth is watering just thinking
about them! In Mantova I also had a
creamy delicious risotto with Mantovian sausage…yet another dish to write home
about! Can you tell the food was one of
my favorite parts of the whole week?!
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| Yummmm |
Late in the afternoon on Saturday we “boarded the
motorcoach” for our 5-6 hour drive back to Rome. Like we did on the way north, we drove
through the snow-covered Appenine Mountains which run through central Italy,
all the while, some of us sleeping, others (attempting) to do homework. The ride seemed rather uneventful until a
large bus full of college-age boys pulled up alongside ours, and at least 25
guys were mooning all of us from windows!
Needless to say, girly screams ensued as did horror and shock from Dr.
Prebys! She then proceeded to give us a
whole lecture on how un-funny the situation (which was clearly an immature joke
on the part of the guy students) was and how guys like that end up mistreating
women and contribute to the violence against women problem in Italy! She asked if any of us had taken pictures of
the “mooners” so that she could add them to the police report she plans to
file! I’m telling you, this is one interesting
lady! Haha.
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| View of the Appenines from the bus |
All in all, the trip was a success, but I can easily say
that it was a relief to get back to Rome.
It’s crazy how much I missed it just being away for five days! I suppose Rome is where the heart is! :)